Mushroom Risotto

Soak the porcini in the 300 ml of just-boiled water for 20 minutes. Lift them out, chop them, and strain the soaking liquid through a sieve lined with kitchen paper into the stock — that liquid is most of the flavour. Bring the stock to a bare simmer and keep it there.

Slice the chestnut mushrooms and fry them in the olive oil over high heat, in batches, until well browned. Season with salt and black pepper and set aside. Crowded mushrooms steam and go grey.

Finely chop the onion and garlic, finely grate the Parmesan and chop the parsley. Soften the onion in half the butter over low heat for 8 minutes without colouring, adding the garlic at the end.

Stir in the rice and toast it for 2 minutes until the grains turn translucent at the edges.

Pour in the wine and stir until it has been absorbed.

Add the hot stock a ladleful at a time, stirring often and only adding more once the last has been absorbed. After 10 minutes, fold in the porcini and most of the fried mushrooms. The rice takes 18 to 20 minutes in all.

When the rice is al dente and the risotto still loose, take it off the heat and beat in the Parmesan hard with the rest of the butter, cold. This is the mantecatura and it is what makes it creamy.

Rest for 2 minutes, then serve with the remaining mushrooms and the parsley scattered over.