Butternut Squash Risotto

Heat the oven to 200°C. Peel the squash, halve it lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Cut half the flesh into 2 cm cubes for roasting (the solid neck gives the neatest cubes) and the rest into 1 cm dice to cook into the risotto.

Toss the 2 cm squash cubes on a large baking tray with 2 tbsp of the olive oil and a little salt and black pepper, and spread them out in a single layer with space between them so they brown rather than steam. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, turning once, until tender and caramelised at the edges, then keep them warm in the turned-off oven.

Bring the stock to a bare simmer in a saucepan and keep it hot over low heat. Finely chop the shallots and 4 of the sage leaves, and finely grate the Parmesan.

Melt 20 g of the butter with the remaining 1 tbsp of olive oil in a wide, heavy pan (about 28 cm) over medium heat. Fry the 12 whole sage leaves for 20 to 30 seconds, until they darken and crisp, then lift them onto kitchen paper for the top.

Lower the heat, add the shallots, the chopped sage and a pinch of salt to the same pan and cook for 6 minutes, stirring, until soft and translucent but not coloured. Add the 1 cm dice of squash and cook for 5 minutes more, until it starts to soften at the edges.

Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes, until the grains are hot and glassy at the edges. Pour in the wine and stir until it has almost evaporated.

Add the hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring often and adding the next only when the last has almost been absorbed. Keep it at a lively simmer, and now and then press some of the squash against the side of the pan so it breaks down and turns the rice orange.

After 16 to 18 minutes, start tasting. The risotto is ready when the rice is tender but still has a slight bite in the centre and the risotto is loose enough to spread slowly when spooned onto a plate. There may be stock left over.

Take the pan off the heat. Dice the remaining 40 g of butter straight from the fridge, add it with most of the Parmesan and beat hard with a wooden spoon for 1 minute, until the risotto turns creamy and glossy. This is the mantecatura. Season with salt and black pepper, cover and rest for 2 minutes.

Spoon into warm shallow bowls and top with the roasted squash and the crisp sage leaves. Serve the rest of the Parmesan at the table.