Chana Masala

Finely chop the onions. Heat the sunflower oil in a heavy pan and fry the cumin seeds for 30 seconds until they crackle and smell nutty.

Add the onions and cook over medium heat for 12 to 15 minutes until genuinely browned, not just softened. This is the longest step and the one that decides how the dish tastes. Meanwhile, crush the garlic, grate the ginger and finely chop the green chilli.

Stir in the garlic, ginger and green chilli for 1 minute, then add the ground coriander, turmeric and chilli powder.

Add the tomatoes and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, pressing them down, until the mixture thickens and the oil separates at the edges.

Drain and rinse the chickpeas and tip them in with the water, season with salt, and simmer for 10 minutes. Crush a spoonful of chickpeas against the side of the pan to thicken the sauce.

Take off the heat and stir in the amchur, garam masala and the juice of the lemon half. Adding these at the end keeps them bright rather than cooking them flat.

Roughly chop the coriander and scatter it over.