Rotkohl

Quarter the cabbage, cut out the core and shred it finely. Toss it with 3 tbsp of the vinegar, 2 tbsp of the sugar and the salt and leave for 30 minutes, or overnight. The vinegar keeps the cabbage a deep red instead of turning blue-grey.

Finely slice the onion and soften it in the butter for 5 minutes. Peel and core the apples and cut them into thin wedges, and lightly crush the juniper berries.

Add the cabbage with its juices, the apple wedges, the wine if using (or the water if not), and the bay leaves, cloves, crushed juniper berries and cinnamon stick tied in a piece of muslin.

Cover and cook very gently for 60 to 75 minutes, stirring now and then and adding a splash of water if it dries out.

Stir in the redcurrant jelly, if using, for gloss and sweetness, lift out the bag of bay leaves, cloves, juniper berries and cinnamon, and balance with the remaining sugar and vinegar to taste.