Nikujaga

Slice the beef very thinly. Peel the potatoes and cut them into large chunks, cut the onion into wedges and the carrot into chunky diagonal pieces, giving it a quarter turn between cuts. Round off the sharp edges of the potato chunks with a knife. It stops them breaking up in the pot.

Heat the oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat and fry the beef until it just changes colour, then add the onion wedges, the potato chunks and the carrot and toss for 1 minute.

Add the dashi, sake, mirin and sugar, and bring to a simmer. Skim off any foam.

Cover with a drop lid — a circle of baking paper laid directly on the surface. This keeps everything submerged and cooking evenly with little liquid.

Simmer for 10 minutes, then add the soy sauce and cook for 10 to 15 minutes more, until the potatoes are tender.

Add the peas for the last few minutes. If using the glass noodles, soak them in hot water for 5 minutes, drain, cut them into shorter lengths and add them with the peas.

Let it rest off the heat for 10 minutes — the potatoes soak up the flavour as it cools.