Kabocha no Nimono

Scrub the pumpkin under the tap, since the skin is eaten. If it is whole, microwave it for 2 minutes to soften the skin, steady it on a damp cloth and halve it through the stem with a large, heavy knife, then weigh out about 600 g. Scoop out the seeds and stringy fibres with a spoon and cut the pumpkin into 4 to 5 cm chunks.

With a small, sharp knife or a vegetable peeler, shave patches of skin off each chunk, leaving about half the dark green skin in place in a mottled pattern. The bare patches let the seasoning in, while the skin left on holds each piece together.

Bevel each chunk by running the knife along its cut edges to shave off the sharp corners. Rounded edges do not knock against each other and crumble into the liquid as the pumpkin simmers.

Arrange the pumpkin skin side down in a single layer in a wide, shallow pan about 22 to 24 cm across. The skin is the firmest part, so it goes nearest the heat. Pour in the dashi; it should come about halfway up the pieces.

Add the sugar, the sake and the mirin, and bring to the boil over medium heat.

Lay a drop lid directly on the pumpkin: a circle of baking paper with a small hole cut in the centre, or a lid that fits inside the pan. Turn the heat down to medium-low and simmer for 5 minutes. The liquid bubbles up against the lid and keeps the tops moist, so the pieces never need turning.

Lift the lid and pour the soy sauce into the liquid around the pieces rather than over them. It goes in after the sugar because its salt firms the flesh and would stop the sweetness soaking in. Replace the lid and simmer for 7 to 10 minutes more, until a skewer slides easily into the thickest piece and the liquid has reduced by about half. Shake the pan gently now and then instead of stirring, which breaks the pumpkin.

Turn off the heat and leave the pumpkin to cool in the liquid, with the drop lid still on, for at least 30 minutes. It soaks up the seasoning as it cools.

Lift the pieces out carefully with a spoon and serve warm or at room temperature, with a little of the cooking liquid spooned over.