Tiropita

Finely chop the dill, and the mint if using. Mash the feta roughly with a fork, leaving some lumps, and mix with the ricotta, eggs, dill, mint, nutmeg and the black pepper. Do not add salt — feta brings enough.

Heat the oven to 180°C. Melt the butter and mix it with the olive oil; the oil stops the butter burning at the edges.

Brush a 25 x 35 cm baking tray with the butter mixture and lay in half the filo sheets one at a time, brushing each with the butter mixture. Keep the unused filo under a damp cloth or it turns to dust.

Spread the filling evenly and fold in any overhang.

Layer the remaining sheets on top, buttering each, and brush the last one generously.

Score the top layers into squares with a sharp knife before baking, cutting through the pastry but not the filling. Cutting after baking shatters it.

Scatter with the sesame seeds, if using, and bake for 45 minutes, until deep gold and crisp all through.

Rest for 15 minutes, then cut along the score lines.