Stifado

Put the baby onions in a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water from the kettle and leave for 1 minute, then drain. When they are cool enough to handle, trim the tops and slip off the skins, leaving the root ends on so the onions stay whole.

Cut the beef shin into 5 cm cubes and pat them dry. Heat the olive oil in a large casserole and brown the beef hard in batches, then set aside.

Brown the whole onions in the same oil until golden all over, and lift them out.

Return the beef, add the peeled whole garlic cloves and the tomato paste and stir for 2 minutes.

Pour in the wine and vinegar and let them bubble for a few minutes, scraping the base.

Add the tomatoes, the cinnamon stick, cloves, allspice berries and bay leaves, with just enough of the water to barely cover. Season with salt and black pepper.

Cover and simmer very gently for 90 minutes.

Return the onions, tucking them in, and cook uncovered for 45 minutes more, until the beef is tender and the sauce has thickened. Lift out the cinnamon stick, bay leaves and as many of the whole spice cloves as you can find before serving.