Steak au Poivre

Crack the peppercorns coarsely under a heavy pan — ground pepper is too fine and turns acrid in the heat. Finely chop the shallot.

Dry the steaks, salt them, and press both flat sides hard into the pepper so it sticks.

Sear in the oil in a heavy pan over high heat: for steaks about 2.5 cm thick, 3 minutes on the first side and 2 minutes on the second, then stand them on the fat edge for 1 minute. Rest on a warm plate.

Lower the heat to medium, pour off the excess fat, drop in half the butter and soften the shallot for 1 minute.

Take the pan off the heat before adding the brandy, then return it to the heat and, standing back, light the brandy with a long match, or simply let it bubble away until nearly dry.

Add the stock and reduce by half, then the cream and mustard, and simmer until it coats a spoon.

Whisk in the last of the butter off the heat, along with any juices from the resting plate. Taste the sauce and add salt if needed, then pour it over the steaks.