Shchi

Put the beef shin in a large pot, pour over the water (2.5 litres, cold) and bring slowly to the boil. Skim off everything that rises — a clear broth is the mark of good shchi.

Add the bay leaves and allspice berries and simmer very gently for 90 to 120 minutes, until the beef is tender. Lift it out, shred it and strain the broth.

While the beef simmers, chop the onion, grate the carrot, peel and dice the potatoes, shred the white cabbage, crush the garlic and chop the dill.

Meanwhile, fry the onion and carrot in the vegetable oil in a frying pan for 8 minutes, then stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes.

Return the broth to the pot with the potatoes and cook for 10 minutes.

Add the white cabbage, the sauerkraut if using and the fried vegetables, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Return the shredded beef and the garlic, season well with salt and black pepper and take it off the heat.

Let it stand for at least 20 minutes before serving — shchi is always better after a rest, and best the next day.

Serve with a spoonful of soured cream and plenty of dill.