Salt and Pepper Squid

Open the squid bodies flat, score the inside in a crosshatch and cut into pieces. The scoring makes them curl and crisp.

Pat completely dry.

Toast the Sichuan peppercorns in a dry pan until fragrant, about 1 minute, then grind them and mix with the salt and white pepper — this is the seasoning.

Finely chop the garlic and slice the chillies and spring onions.

Toss the squid in the cornflour and plain flour mixed with half the seasoning.

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or deep heavy pan, no more than a third full, to 190°C. Fry the squid in small batches for 60 to 90 seconds only, until pale gold and crisp. Squid turns rubbery if cooked a moment longer.

Drain on a rack.

In a clean wok, fry the garlic, chillies and spring onions in a spoonful of the frying oil for 30 seconds, then toss in the squid with the rest of the seasoning.

Cut the lemon into wedges and serve at once with the squid.