Risotto alla Milanese

Heat the stock. Steep the saffron in a ladleful of it and keep the rest of the stock at a bare simmer beside you.

Finely grate the Parmesan and chop the onion very finely. Melt a third of the butter and cook the onion over low heat for 8 minutes until translucent but not coloured.

Add the rice and toast it for 2 minutes, stirring, until the grains are hot and the edges turn glassy. This seals them so they stay separate.

Pour in the wine and stir until it has gone.

Add hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until each one is nearly absorbed before the next. Keep it at a lively simmer, not a boil.

After about 16 minutes add the saffron with its steeping stock. Start tasting: the grain should be soft with a firm centre.

Take the pan off the heat, dice the remaining cold butter and add it with most of the grated Parmesan and salt to taste, and beat hard for 1 minute. This is the mantecatura and it is what makes risotto creamy — not cream.

Rest for 1 minute, then serve spread flat on warm plates with the rest of the Parmesan sprinkled over. It should ripple when you tap the plate.