Mujadara

Slice the onions as evenly as you can. Thick and thin slices in the same pan means some are burnt before the others have coloured.

Heat the olive oil in a wide heavy pan over medium heat, add the onions with a good pinch of salt and cook them for 25 to 35 minutes, stirring every few minutes. They go limp, then straw-coloured, then a deep even brown. Drop the heat towards the end rather than hurrying: the sugars turn from sweet to bitter very quickly.

Lift about a third of the onions onto kitchen paper with a slotted spoon and spread them out. They crisp as they cool and become the topping. Leave the rest in the pan with the oil.

Meanwhile, rinse the rice under the cold tap until it runs clear, then leave it to soak in cold water.

Bring the lentils to a boil in 700 ml of the water and simmer for 15 to 18 minutes, until tender but still holding their shape when you bite one. They cook again with the rice, so stop while they still have some resistance. Drain them over a bowl and keep the cooking water. Drain the rice.

Add the drained rice to the onions in the pan and stir over medium heat for 1 minute, until every grain is coated and glossy. Stir in the cumin, coriander, allspice, the rest of the salt and the pepper.

Tip in the lentils and 450 ml of the reserved lentil water, topping up with fresh hot water if you are short. Bring to a boil, then cover, turn the heat to its lowest and cook for 15 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed.

Take the pan off the heat, lay a tea towel under the lid and leave it for 10 minutes before forking the grains through.

Pile onto a platter, heap the crisp onions over the top and scatter with the parsley, chopped, if using. Serve warm or at room temperature with the yoghurt alongside.