Gà Kho Gừng

Chop the bone-in chicken thighs through the bone into bite-sized pieces, chop the garlic and coarsely grind the black pepper. Mix the chicken with 2 tablespoons of the fish sauce, the garlic and half the black pepper, and marinate in the fridge for 20 minutes.

Cut the ginger into fine matchsticks rather than grating it. You want to find pieces of it as you eat, which is the whole idea. Thinly slice the shallots, cut the spring onions into 4 cm lengths and slice the chilli, if using.

Make the caramel: melt the sugar with 2 tablespoons of the water in a heavy pan over medium heat, without stirring, until dark amber.

Add the oil and the shallots and cook for 1 minute, then add the chicken and turn it in the caramel until coated.

Add the ginger, the rest of the fish sauce and the rest of the water. Bring to a simmer.

Cook uncovered for 25 minutes, turning occasionally, until the chicken is tender and cooked through, with no pink at the bone and clear juices, and the sauce has reduced to a thick glaze. Meanwhile, rinse the rice and cook it.

Finish with the rest of the black pepper, the spring onions and the chilli, if using, and serve with the rice.