Fabada Asturiana

The night before, cover the fabes with plenty of cold water and leave to soak for 12 hours.

Peel the onion and the garlic cloves. Drain the soaked beans and put them in a wide heavy pot with the pork belly, smoked bacon, the whole onion, the garlic cloves, the bay leaf and the sweet paprika.

Cover with cold water by 4 cm and bring slowly to the boil. Skim off everything that rises.

Turn it down to the barest simmer. Add a splash of cold water whenever it threatens to boil — Asturians call this asustar, frightening the beans, and it stops the skins splitting.

After 1 hour, add the chorizo and the morcilla whole, nestling them among the beans. Never cut them or they collapse and cloud the broth.

Cook for 60 to 90 minutes more, until the beans are completely soft but still whole, adding the saffron and the olive oil for the last 15 minutes.

Never stir with a spoon. Shake the pot by its handles instead.

Season with salt only now; the cured meats bring most of it.

Rest off the heat for 30 minutes so the broth thickens. Lift out and discard the onion and bay leaf, then lift out the meats, slice them and serve them alongside the beans.