Maqluba

Rinse the rice until the water runs clear, then cover with cold water and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Slice the aubergines 1 cm thick. Peel the potatoes and slice them 1 cm thick.

Quarter the onion and bruise the cardamom pods. Simmer the bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs with the onion, cardamom, bay leaves and a teaspoon of salt in water to cover for 30 minutes, until cooked through. Lift out the chicken and strain the broth, keeping it — you will cook the rice in it.

Salt the aubergine slices and leave for 20 minutes, then pat dry. Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat (it should be about 5 mm deep) and fry the aubergine slices in batches until deep brown. Fry the potato slices the same way until golden. Drain both on kitchen paper.

Drain the soaked rice and mix it with the turmeric, cinnamon, allspice and a teaspoon of salt.

Brush the base and sides of a heavy (ideally non-stick) pot with a little of the vegetable oil. Line the base with the potato slices, then the chicken skin side down, then the aubergine up the sides and across.

Spread the rice over the top and press it down flat. Pour in the strained broth to come 2 cm above the rice.

Bring to the boil, then cover and cook on the lowest heat for 40 minutes. Do not lift the lid or stir.

Rest off the heat for 15 minutes, still covered. This is what lets it hold together. Meanwhile, toast the flaked almonds and pine nuts in a dry pan until golden, and chop the parsley.

Wearing oven gloves, lay a large platter over the pot, take a breath, and invert the whole thing in one confident movement. Leave the pot sitting for 1 minute before lifting it off.

Scatter with the toasted almonds, pine nuts and parsley.