Kedgeree

Poach the undyed smoked haddock, skin on, in the milk with the bay leaf for 6 to 8 minutes, until it flakes. Lift it out, strain the milk and keep it.

Flake the fish into large pieces, discarding skin and bones.

Boil the eggs for 7 minutes, cool them under the tap and peel. The yolks should be just set with a soft centre.

Finely chop the onion and soften it in the butter for 8 minutes, then add the mild curry powder and the turmeric and cook for 1 minute.

Rinse the rice, then stir it in until coated. Add the strained poaching milk, about 450 ml, and bring to the boil, stirring once. Using the milk is what ties the rice to the fish.

Cover tightly and cook on the lowest heat for 12 minutes, then rest off the heat for 10 minutes.

Chop the parsley. Fork the rice through and fold in the haddock and most of the parsley, with the cream if using. Do not stir hard or the fish breaks up.

Quarter the eggs and arrange them on top, scatter over the rest of the parsley and grind over black pepper. Cut the lemon into wedges and serve them alongside.