Cullen Skink

Poach the undyed smoked haddock, skin on, in the milk with the bay leaf for 5 minutes, until it just flakes. Lift it out and strain the milk — that smoky milk is the soup base.

Flake the fish into large pieces, discarding skin and bones.

Finely chop the onion, slice the leek if using, and peel the potatoes and dice them into 2 cm cubes.

Soften the onion and the leek in the butter for 8 minutes without colouring.

Add the potatoes and the water, and simmer for 15 minutes until soft.

Mash about half the potatoes roughly in the pan to thicken the soup. Leave the rest in pieces.

Pour in the smoky milk and bring back to a gentle simmer. Do not boil hard or the milk catches.

Return the haddock, add the cream if using, and warm through without stirring too much.

Season with plenty of freshly ground black pepper — the fish usually brings enough salt — then chop the chives and scatter them over.